Angry land

Rome, 09.09.2019 The ferry sailed into the port of Brindisi very slowly, two hours late. Toilets were so dirty I avoided them. The sky didn't promise any great weather. Driving out of the port Southern Italy hit me already on the very first meters. Run down warehouses, roads being reclaimed by nature on the sidelines, …

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The Peloponnese

Igoumentisa, 01.09.2019 After 2 weeks of disconnect on an island in the Aegean, the car ferry reached the port of Piraeus at 05:00 in the morning. Driving through the deserted streets of Athens in the dark felt surreal, given the daytime traffic I was used to navigate in that city. Just half an hour later …

Hellas

Athens, 16.08.2019 Istanbul in the morning of the Eid holiday was empty, trafficless and calm when I left it westwards. I'd never have imagined using these words to describe the city. The few hours to the border passed without major excitements. I skipped a winery visit I had thought about, as the Mini was already …

Crossing the Bosphorus

Istanbul, 12.08.2019 In the past three months I had crossed the borders of Europe and Asia repeatedly. In the Urals and the Caucasus I criss-crossed from one side to the other. From Çanakkale to the Gallipoli peninsula it was a short 30 mins crossing over the Dardanelles on the car ferry, avoiding the big cargo …

Mediterranean

Çanakkale, 10.08.2019 It's home, the sea, the wind and the heat of the Mediterranean. And it's very much defined by what I know from the northern stretch between the Aegean and the pillars of Hercules. Looking at the map this is just about a third of the total coastline of the actual Mediterranean sea. The …

Borderlands

Mersin, 05.08.2019 14 real border crossings after leaving Barcelona 11 weeks ago, there were two more to go. I expected these to be of the easier sort. Reaching the Georgian border post, in 10 minutes and a short conversation later I was done. It only took so "long" because the officer saw that I had …

Wining and dining

Cildir, 02.08.2019 One of the oldest know wine producing regions in the world is in Georgia, dating back to over 8000 years ago. I knew little about Georgian wine beyond the heavy Saperavi red wines that can be found in Georgian restaurants abroad and a short culinary discovery in 2013 while passing through the country. …